Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Injustice even at the roof of the world

Maybe you heard about the deadliest day in Everest history. Most people understand that climbing is very risky no matter what, but a recent trend has been shifting the danger from the high-paying Western customers ($50-90K per person) to the staff of sherpas that climbing org's employ to "set the table" for the customers. These sherpas (lowercase "s" for the profession, uppercase "S" for the ethnic group that represent the vast majority of sherpas) are paid $2-8K per expedition, with a death insurance of $10.5K to their families. So you can see where the majority of the profits go.

It's not just financials, but the climbing experience too. Sherpas have to traverse the more hazardous portions of Everest dozens of times (maybe even 30) for every one pass from a paying customer. They haul gear back and forth, set up acclimation camps, and lay down ropes and ladders. The most dangerous stuff that is usually core to climbing. Now the paying customers just pack water and a camera, literally. Not surprisingly, western death rates on the mountain have plummeted in the last 20 years, but guess who is picking up the slack? Some of this is due to better use of canned oxygen and dexamethasone (a drug that makes edema less likely). But O2 is heavy - guess who hauls the cans up and down for the customers? And most sherpas do not have modern medical care, so they don't get dex in their villages and their employers don't seem to want to buy it for them.

Understandably, the sherpas have threatened to strike unless climbing org's and the Nepalese gov't give them better safety protection and family benefits. This is coming from a traditionally stoic people. It would be like if the Hulk tells Capt. America that he is worried about the next mission - you better freaking pay attention.

The "outsourcing" of risk and concentration of profits stink of the negative side of globalization. Of course the top climbing org's are exclusively foreign-owned. Yes the sherpas are paid better than their next best available employment alternative, but it is not worth a job that is many times more dangerous than being a soldier in Iraq, statistically. And remember, Blackwater contractors got six-fig salaries and hazard bonuses at the expense of the US taxpayer, just to cook or drive a truck.

I thought the whole point of climbing a mountain was to prove your mettle? It is you and the rock, not you + an army of support staff because you can afford it. Of course for such a challenge as Everest, it is a team effort, but this is not right IMO. Is this just another way for big shot 1%ers to have a story to tell and show how badass they are? But in reality, they are only doing about 1% of the work needed to climb and survive Everest - at the expense of many local deaths. Hey, no one wants to die - I get that. But then don't climb freaking Everest; play a round at Pebble. They want their cake and eat it too, like most everything else in their amazing lives. And it doesn't matter about the consequences to others. They get what they want because they earned it and deserve it, just like Romney said.

I hope the sherpa strike works out, and they get at least 75% of the available profits from expeditions. Because they are the key resource (like the student athletes vs. the NCAA). Any schmuck can manage the front desk, assuming zero risk. And maybe the sherpas will let Joe Wall St. haul his own damn tent and tanks next time, if he is such a Master of the Universe.

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